Italy's competition authority has launched two investigations into LVMH-owned beauty brands Sephora and Benefit Cosmetics over allegations that the companies deployed young micro-influencers to promote adult skincare products, including anti-aging creams, to children as young as 10 years old.
The Autorità Garante della Concorrenza e del Mercato (AGCM) announced on Friday, Mar. 27, that it is probing Benefit Cosmetics LLC, Sephora Italia S.r.L., and LVMH Profumi e Cosmetici Italia S.r.L. for what it described as "possible unfair commercial practices" tied to the marketing of adult cosmetics to minors.
At the center of the probe is what AGCM called a "particularly insidious" marketing strategy, according to Beauty Packaging.
The regulator said the brands appeared to use very young micro-influencers, content creators with followings in the thousands, to encourage children and adolescents to make compulsive purchases of face masks, serums, and anti-aging creams.
Micro-influencers, typically defined as creators with fewer than 100,000 followers, are often viewed as more relatable by young audiences.
"The investigations were opened over concerns that important information, such as warnings and precautions for cosmetics not intended for, or tested on, minors, may have been omitted or presented in a misleading manner," the AGCM said in its statement. The authority warned that frequent use of a wide range of such cosmetics by minors without proper awareness can be harmful to their health.
On Thursday, Mar. 26, AGCM officers and Italy's financial police carried out inspections at the Italian offices of Sephora Italia, LVMH Profumi e Cosmetici Italia, and LVMH Italia as part of the inquiry.
The regulator said these practices are fueling a growing problem known as "cosmeticorexia," a term used to describe an unhealthy obsession with skincare among young people, CNBC reported.
A recent study published in the Journal of Dermatology and Therapy defined the condition as "a culturally reinforced fixation or obsession with attaining 'flawless' skin, potentially leading to excessive, inappropriate, or compulsive use of cosmetic products and procedures."
Dermatologists have warned that such products can cause skin irritation, allergic reactions, and in some cases, lasting skin damage in children.
The investigation comes amid the viral "Sephora Kids" trend on social media platforms like TikTok and Instagram, where children film themselves purchasing and showcasing skincare products under hashtags such as "Sephora kids haul" and "Sephora kids GRWM." Sephora has nearly 23 million Instagram followers and over 2 million on TikTok.
In response, LVMH said it would "fully cooperate" with the investigation but declined to comment further on the ongoing inquiry. "All companies reaffirm their strict adherence to relevant Italian regulations," the company said in a statement.
The teen personal care market is projected to grow by 6.6%, or an estimated $12.75 billion globally, between 2025 and 2030, as per Fast Company.
